Patagonia – Trekking 1

El Chalten – Trek 1

I headed off next to El Chalten, a 200km bus ride away from El Calafate. It is here that world renowned walks are located. The bus is an older one that has a really annoying clicking sound (like an indicator) that is on the whole time, not sure what it was but after about an hour into the 3 hour drive, I put my ears in and listened to music to drown it out. 

The road trip

Despite the volume of clouds in the sky some more ominous than others there are holes dotted here and there allowing the still fighting light to pierce the ever growing darkness and give me this majestic view of the mountain range – one that I will be close up and personal with over the next couple of days.

I’m really excited at what the next couple of days holds and I realise – on my i-pad – (randomly at this precise moment) was playing a great piece of music from an iconic Aussie Movie ‘The Man From Snowy River’ (yes I have many soundtracks such as this on my i-tunes). It’s the piece that plays in the film where Jim succeeds at rounding up all the wild horses and brings them back to Harrison’s ranch after that great scene where he flies over the huge jump and down the mountain on his horse (after all other riders had given up). How ironic that this piece is playing as I come into a town where mountains and exploring them is key to it’s existence. You couldn’t wipe the smile off my face as the music came to an end. I quietly hit ‘repeat’. 

Seeing the welcoming lights of El Chalten for the first time as we round the corner my first thought was that I was about to arrive into a Christmas Village. Its a really small town, only a few roads really that was slapped together in 2005 when competition for this land between Argentina and Chile intensified, so Argentina built this town to claim some sort of first settlement. And now it does nothing but serve tourism. It is amazing that it’s only been since 1985 that people have really been coming here. Probably a good thing actually from an environmental perspective.

Laguna Torre

My first day of exploring in Patagonia was out to Laguna Torre, and it was beyond what I imagined, what a lovely corner of the world. There were so many WOW moments that stopped me in my tracks and I literally said the words out loud as it’s simply gorgeous countryside here. Others around me did the same thing as you round a corner every now and then and spy the spectacular mountains and glaciers in front of you. It’s serene and peaceful with only the sounds of the wind and gentle rapids that you come across in certain areas of the path as the welcome noise along the trail. 

The amazing thing about this trek – 3hrs in and then 3hrs out again – was that the scenery around you changed about every 30 minutes. Firstly you are walking on dirt track in the open, then through what looks like a forrest with nothing but rocks that you clamber over and walk on, then it’s tree roots everywhere to look out for. The path wasn’t the only thing that changed so often, the flora was bushy and dense, then bare with bare bald trees everywhere, then it was green forest again. This added to the WOW moments of the day and was the cause of more than a few small trips as I went along, looking up far too much and not enough of watching the path, something that I was very careful with on the return as the more tired you get, the more likely you are not to lift your feet and then goodness knows what happens then. 

A little flying insect stayed in front of me for a few minutes at one stage, so I started chatted to him – ‘Hey little fellah, you going to be my guide for the day? Got something to show me?’ He buzzed off not long after our chat, maybe he started to lead the way for someone else?

I made a friend, sort of

For a while it seemed I had the path to myself and  I wondered if I was indeed on the right trail (wouldn’t put it past me to do that). Then I spotted the tall bald guy from one of the previous stop not too far ahead. He was putting sunscreen on his head again. He’s a tall gent, quite imposing whose strides were longer than my shadow and as I had started to talk to myself at this stage, I decided he looked a bit like Michael Klim. And so I dubbed him Mr Klim. Klimmy. However for some unknown reason, I was talking to myself in a Japanese accent, so the actual pronunciation of his new name was in fact Mistaaaa Kwimm. I had a little giggle with myself (not at myself) on this one.  Perhaps something to worry about in the future with this talking to ones’ self however I am great company for myself when walking along in stretches like this on a 6 hour hike. Good to see I amuse myself if not one else.

I noticed along the way there were a number of older people carrying full backpacks. Hats off to you all, won’t catch me doing that. 

Made it

Arriving at my destination the sun creeps back through the building clouds giving me an amazing view of the shimmering waters that lap the mountain shore with the glacier perching ever so forebodingly.  I climb a little more to get a better look and then sit down and take it all in. What spectacular scenery all around me and all along the path. This is one walk where you really respect and understand the phrase: life is not about the destination, it’s about the journey. 3 hours of changing and stunning scenery all along giving so many WOW moments to so many people and then be rewarded with this vista at the end. Incredible. I don’t mean to shock you all, but you’ll be happy to know that one of the snacks I brought with me here today was an apple. AND I actually ate it. Yes I know, don’t fall off your seats.

Yay me.

Oh look, more friends

One the way back, if I said HOLA once I must have said it about 381 times. These treks are very sociable places and I had some lovely chats with people I met along the way, mostly older American people who were all doing Patagonia and this southern area as their holiday. Lots of trips to Antarctica or a 4 day boat ride down past Cape Horn to Ushuaia – the southern most point called the End of the World (Antarctica excepted). It’s so lovely to meet such nice people on days like this and hear more stories of adventures achieved and yet to come. Helps the time pass.   

As I get to within 30 minutes from town the wind picks up to a howling pace. I was walking side wards at one stage and nearly lost my hat twice. I had a tissue permanently covering my mouth but still dust seemed to get in. It didn’t help that I was walking on a dirt track, and when I dared to look up I could see a mini tornado of dust being swirled up and up and coming in my direction. Oh Crap. Just turn your back and walk through it PJ I said to myself. I did and I arrived safe and sound back in my comfy room still buzzing yet ready for one looong hot shower. Can’t imagine how much dust will fall out of my clothes back in the room. Hope they have a broom handy!

Something to note

I saw a house completely made of tin! Ergh, I could not think of anything worse. I just had to put this in and tell you. 

There’s a saying that ‘Life begins at 40’. Whether someone made it up to make themselves feel better because they wasted the first 39 years of their life or if it is true, I’m sticking with the latter because here I am at 40 and it’s starting with walks amongst some of the most spectacular scenery in the world.

If this is what the 40’s are all about – then I’m on board Captain – sign me up. 

Travel is the best