Patagonia Trekking 2
El Chalten – Laguna de los Tres
I’d heard good things about this particular trek and the guy at reception told me that it’s best to do this particular trek on a good day with not much wind and don’t even think about it if it is cloudy. He also mentioned that it’s very steep for the last hour! I considered myself warned. Given the weather conditions over the coming two days he recommended this trek be today rather than yesterday, and I was very grateful for his advice.
I was out early-ish and on the trail by 6.00am with another sunny and crisp morning to enjoy. Turns out not only the last hour is uphill but the first hour as well. This is not a hard uphill and given I hate uphill with a passion it was not too bad. The views as I looked back from whence I came were gorgeous. The sun was still rising so the shadows in the valley were long and gave off a cool look. you could be forgiven for just looking at the views all day and refusing to go up any further (like an insolent donkey) but instead, I steel myself for what lay ahead.
The scenery was like going through old style ‘woods’, lots of tall trees and many fallen trees all over the place. They obviously take care of the trails here as there were water run off areas, logs to step on and be above water when it is around and old tree stumps used as stepping stones in parts. Old logs cut in two dotted the trail to help cross ravines or running streams.
A slow start
At first I was quite underwhelmed with the view along the trail given yesterday’s ever changing scenery every 30 mins or so, this was quite ho-hum in comparison. I hoped at this stage that the trail would live up to the high expectation I had in my mind from all the talk. Thankfully my initial thoughts could not have been more wrong.Yes the first hour was perhaps not as interesting as yesterday, but the scenery did eventually change, and what a change!
Over an hour and a quarter into the walk to Laguna los Tres (Mount Fitzroy Lookout) and there is a viewpoint from where you can see Mount Fitzroy in all its splendour for the first real time on the walk. WOW! I said it out loud and came to a dead stop again in my tracks. I then heard someone to the side of me (who I hadn’t seen till now) agree completely with my sentiment. Two Americans had been sitting for about 5 minutes and were just leaving when I arrived. We all agreed that Patagonia really is a natural paradise with surprises all around.
This little viewing spot was surrounded by logs and branches that seem to have been strategically placed around the semi circular clearing as if to cuddle you in your spot. Very cosy indeed.
And so I stopped to look at my surroundings. This view was my end game for the day and although it looked quite far away it’s closer than it appears. Only 3 hours walk from here (and 3 hours back of course). I was pumped and continued on.
Then the WOW moments just kept coming, this time choice words like ‘Holy Cow’ shot out from my mouth before I could stop them. I realised at times like this, that I was continually stopping dead in my tracks, completely mesmerised by the landscapes before me, and at times with my mouth wide open, in shock at it all. I pinched myself at one stage to ensure I was fully aware of the unbelievable opportunity I have to be here, with clear sight taking in all this scenery for two days in a row. What a pleasure it is exercising out in the middle of nature as lovely as this. I really am a very lucky lady.
About 2h 45mins in and there was a campsite set along a river amongst a little forrest that hopefully would have given some shelter to campers from yesterdays horrid winds. There were a number of tents here scattered all about, some up in the forrest area whilst others were closer to the river. Given the gorgeous day that we had many seemed to be drying their camp gear and clothes on the rocks around the river. I put my hands in the river to get some water to splash my face and it was a tad chilli… I guess it is glacier water after all.
Then, there I was, at the bottom of the ‘ascent’, the hardest and steepest section of the trail. The signs tell me that this is the most uneven and steep surface and that only trekkers with experience and proper boots should attempt it. Not that people generally pay attention to signs like this. People will climb and trek things in the most unusual gear and still make it. It also noted that this section should take one hour. I am a naturally fast walker in normal life and had managed till now to do all the walks ahead of the detailed times, but I had a feeling this was definitely going to take me the full hour. My nemesis had returned – uphill.
And so I continue up the hill thinking of what the view from 1.5 hours ago would look like close up. The first section is steep but it is a ‘flat’ surface if that makes sense. There was lots of gravel and small stones but solidly up the incline.
Then the larger boulder rocks appeared on the track and then about 1/3 of the way up it turned into climbing up and over rocks and steps. At one stage toward the top the rocks seriously looked like they had all fallen from an avalanche and this is just where they ended up with us poor suckers having to find a path through them.
However – luckily- there are wooden poles with yellow arrows all along to guide you in the right direction. As I looked up I saw a few people ahead of me I realised how high up they were and thought – Ah Crap, that means I have to climb that high too.
There are no photos of this section because I could barely breathe or be bothered to take my phone or camera out.
With about 20 mins left I found myself stopping every 30 seconds or so.. well it felt like that in any case. By this time people I had not even seen behind me had not only caught up, but had overtaken me, young guys in their 20’s who were pretty fit and clearly had a lot of energy. One guy seemed to bound effortlessly up over the rocks.. Grrr.
Then as I get to what I thought was the top I stood in disbelief that this was not in fact the top, but a gravel plateau before the top part of the hill about 100m away on the other side. I believe the words ‘you’re F*%&$^ kidding me’ may have come out of my mouth as I trudged through the gravel that felt like I was walking in thick mud. Then another steep incline awaited at the other side where I caught an older American gentleman who like me, stopped every few steps by now. We just smiled at each other and slowly but surely kept going.
Anyone with decent fitness would not struggle nearly as much as I did or as much as this sounds. Like I said, the young guys seemed to have no problem with this although everyone was completely sweaty and a tad red faced when they reached the top – then there are the poor buggers carrying full backpacks who look like they had just stepped out of the shower when they finally did reach the top.
FINALLY I reached the top! Those last few steps seemed so much lighter as I saw the peak of Mount Fitzroy peep over the top and into view. I felt my whole body relax and a smile start to creep across my face. The view that unfolded before me was simply breathtaking (far more so than the climb to get here). It was ridiculously beautiful, pristine, gorgeous, stunning.. all those adjectives that I seem to have abused so often on this trip once again take pride of place in order to give you some sense of how this moment made me feel.
The climb was definitely worth it and I would do it again if I had to. The best part was that I could now sit, enjoy, observe, listen and watch….. all whilst having a bite to eat and some water to replenish the energy for the hike back.
There were only a few people around when I arrived, but over the next 1.5 hours I took great pleasure in hearing all the new arrivals’ comments, all very pleased to have made it up the hill and stand in awe of what they were now seeing.
The height of the sun in the sky creates varied colours on the ground at different times of the day and this lake was no different. In the time that I was there it seemed to change colours a few times, hence the reason I now have no space on my i-phone. 2285 photos and no less than 43 videos later and the phone was full (and this doesn’t include my camera). So while I was sitting in a pretty awesome place with the sun at my back, I deleted photos that I believe I have copied elsewhere. Lord help me if I haven’t. So with more space created I was ready to keep shooting and make my way back to El Chalten town, a four hour return walk which can take me on yet another path to more lakes and scenery as I go. It’s a pretty special part of the world here in Patagonia and I walk a little slowly on my return so that I can enjoy the moments I have left here. I recommend this place to everyone.
Note to all: Perhaps it’s best NOT to have a slide night with me upon return.
Along the path today 2 speedy gonzales French Candian guys overtook me early on at around 7.00am – going at the speed of sound. I thought I walked fast but these guys have a rocket in their pocket or something.
I caught them about 30 mins later as they were trying to take a selfie and I offered my services for this and we started chatting in French. One of them looked at me quite seriously, trying to gague my accent. He then said – ‘You speak very good French but I am guessing it is not your first language.’ ‘Oui, correct’ I answered, not giving anything away.
We crossed each other again at the top of the mountain and then again in town later that afternoon after I went in search of a Vodka. They were out the front of the pub and invited me to join them. There was some funny banter about accents and not understanding some of their words (French Canadians have a very thick accent and say words that are old style French that the ‘real’ French don’t use anymore).
In the end we all ended up at dinner which was great to get some French conversation in there amongst all the Spanish that has been taking up my brain space. Then back into English when another of their new American friends also joined us.
The new friend
This is what is great about travel. You can meet as complete strangers in the morning, share stories or cross paths during the day, then dine together in the evening. When do you do this at home in your everyday life? Meet a stranger and invite them to dinner – listen to their tale and share a drink? You meet and hear so many great stories in the land of the free traveller. Some of them are company for a day, others maybe for a week and some people remain friends for life.
It’s the love of travel, passion for discovery and desire to see the ever amazing beauty of this world that connects us all and keeps us going from destination to destination, meeting sincerely lovely people along the way and providing unforgettable lifelong memories.
Travel is absolutely the best thing ever.
