Insights from Croatia
After spending nearly three weeks in Croatia hearing so many stories both past and present, it was not hard to walk away loving her spirit and courage, even though not all of her history is pleasant.
Some things about this area that I found of interest are:
They all know their history
- I’m a bit of a history buff, so hearing all about who conquered whom from the 6th century BC onwards was rather fascinating. More so because nearly every citizen i spoke to during my trip could quote most of their long and complicated history.
- Many Australians would struggle to even get through our very small background – all 230 or so years of it. The Poms invaded (after an international race to get here) and pretty much took over the way things were. Not alot of the indigenous way of life was preserved. Most of our families are either convicts or free settlers, and more recently come from immigration or asylum. End of story. Very different to how history is remembered here in the Balkans – history has been drilled into them, and for better or worse, it is there to stay.
- They are a proud mix of heritage lines, many of whom identify with this via their facial or body features that are well known from either the Greeks, Venetians or Austro-Hungarian lineage. One tour guide said her nose was Greek, while her jaw line was Hungarian and her attitude was Venetian! Even to this day, many family are of mixed race due to the multiculturalism of the area and freedom of borders from the old Yugoslavia. A child might have Croat and Serb parents or Bosnian and Muslim parents… mixed race families are very strong here, which sadly caused much anguish during the homeland war from 1991 – 95.
Ice cream is a currency in itself
- Ice Cream is absolutely everywhere in all the countries I visited, with ice cream shops located on most street corners. I came across flavours I didn’t even know existed, some with names that would be more suited in a Harry Potter lolly shop than being served to refined taste buds.
- They are a mix of delicious creamy, sour, over sugary and strange colours and a melange of flavours. Some are made with different kinds of milk or no milk at all – but one thing is for sure, you simply have to try your luck with a few different flavours.
- Like it or lump it, have a go and see what you end up with. It might surprise you.
Croatia invented the neck tie
- Or so the story goes. Way back when, in the 17th century, Croatian soldiers going to war would wear a slim red piece of material around their necks that held the top of their jackets together.
- Apparently, the French King (Louis) at the time saw this and though it looked quite dapper and had the Croats invent a French version, and he named it – La Cravat.
- Practically every one of my Croatian guides apologised to all the men on the tour for this choking and useless invention.
- I have done a little reading since returning from my trip and some people say that as far back as 22BC Chinese Emperor’s were dressed in some sort of tie in the tomb, and Roman Orators wore neck-er-chiefs to keep their throats warm, however the Croats are determined that they invented this form of the tie. So I’m happy to stick with this version. The Croats even celebrated the invention when I was there by dressing many of the statues around Zagreb in red neck ties for a couple of days.
Cash is still king
- Whilst Dubrovnik seems to be the most commercial city of Croatia in every sense of the word, other cities such as Split were still reliant on cash. Given how busy this port-town can be in summer I was really surprised at this. Along the gorgeous foreshore in Split, restaurant after restaurant is ready to serve at their very inflated prices ($7 for a coke), along with ATM after ATM in between shops along the boulevard ready to dispense cash as and when you need.
- Then when you have been to the ATM to pay in cash, you head back to the shop/restaurant to pay, handing over the only notes you have, the ones that have come from the ATM, when you are then confronted with the request ‘Don’t you have anything smaller?’ …Seriously?… so, I asked the bureau de change people if they would swap some of my larger notes for smaller ones and was met with a severe ‘no – We don’t do that!’ at each bureau.
- At one stage, the server in a bakery advised that she could not change my equivalent of a $20 note so she said I could not buy what I has just requested and that was wrapped and ready to go on the counter. She was serious and would not budge, so I just had to leave. (You know how much I love my bakery items, so this was not a pleasant experience).
- Of course in supermarkets and larger stores and restaurants they take cards… but I was quite surprised how some areas were still cash heavy. Just something to think of if you visit this area. Small notes will get you a long way.
The elderly trying to make ends meet
- After observing a large number of older people scrummaging through bins for plastic bottles, I asked my guide why so many people seem to do this.
- Daniela, my cruise captain advised that the pension in Croatia is very small, most retired people without savings or a superannuation are not able to live off the payment, so many try to make money by recycling the plastic bottles.
- All through Croatia I saw people searching through bins to find anything they could that would supplement their income.
- Quite a sad site both for the fact that people need to do this in order to just survive but also that there is so much wasted plastic overflowing in these bins.
Bins on street corners
- In some towns I noticed large bins on street corners that people would ride their bike up to or drive to and then load their rubbish in the bin. I thought it was weird – why would people use these bins instead of bins from their apartments or houses? But I realised these were communal bins. These were not apartment bins on the street, but city bins taking in domestic rubbish. I forgot to ask someone about these as why would they need these if people have communal bins in apartments but maybe they don’t…. and this is why they need the bins at the end of the street.
- In Slovenia, they are world leading in how they are tackling waste. There are many bins that line the street with clearly marked signage for what goes in each bin, and the amazing thing is that most of the country is doing their bit to help make it the most sustainable and recyclable country.
- You can even be fined if you put the wrong rubbish in. Some of the measures put in place are common sense that other western countries could definitely learn from.
Parking
- I believe you can park anywhere, in any which way, with whatever vehicle you have at the time.
- It’s quite a scene in some places and very amusing to watch people trying to get their cars out if they were a little wedged in somewhere. Sitting on your horn until the perpetrator that parked you in comes back does not seem to help, nor does trying to lift and shift the car! The exchange of words when the person eventually does come back though is quite the spectacle to watch.
There are so many things that I saw that it’s impossible to tell them all here without boring you to death. Whilst I may think these things are interesting, I am keenly aware that other people may just think – ‘Meh’. However, I like observing when I travel and these are just reflections of things I noted. I hope you have enjoyed discovering a little more about the culture as I did.
Travel is the best.